Clouds move, water moves. Try to create dynamics in your frame by the use of moving water or clouds. You can do this by using long or short shutter speeds. You can make use of filters to create longer exposures or create drama with very short exposures. Always experiment with different exposure times with both clouds and water.
Tip #1. Most landscape photos are shot with wide lenses. I love wide lenses myself, but try a telephoto and experiment with long focal lengths of 100mm-300mm+. Try photographing patterns or small details in landscapes. Or try it in the mountains on mountain tops. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll notice that a whole new world of landscape photography opens up. Seriously, try it.
Tip #2. Experiment with a CPL filter. I did landscape photography without a CPL filter for years. But once you have one, you start to see why it can be so useful in different cases. It can be especially useful to control the amount of sunlight and reflection on reflective surfaces — you can’t simply do this in post-production.
Tip #3. When photographing with longer lenses, use layers and compression. Landscapes look totally different with long lenses and you can compress foreground and background objects to give a lot of depth to your photo.
Tip #4. Use light to your advantage. Light always changes especially during sunsets and sunrises. Look for details here and isolated objects by light. This happens a lot in the mountains where clouds and light play around peaks go on during the whole day.
Tip #5. When shooting with wide angles, get very close to objects to create a lot of depth in your photo. By ‘very close,’ I mean VERY close. So close that your lens almost touches the foreground object. This can be a flower, a plant, or anything. You can use focus stacking to get everything in focus or choose to pick a very wide open aperture to get the foreground completely out of focus/blurry. Both choices offer different looks and can both be used in nice ways.
Tip #6. Make use of sun stars in your composition. When shooting directly into the sun and closing down your aperture to f/16-f/22 you will see that your lens will create a sun star. Different lenses have different characteristics. Some lenses create beautiful sun stars and you may want to make use of them. Position the sun against an edge, like the horizon or just an object in the frame. By positioning it slightly against an edge, the sun stars will look best. Try and experiment
Tip #7. Learn how to shoot with extreme wide angle lenses and fisheye lenses. By extreme wide, I mean wider than 14 mm (full frame equivalent). Photographing at 10 mm-12 mm or wider with fisheye lenses give you a whole new perspective of a landscape. It opens up lots of (creative) possibilities. Learn the ‘defish’ technique that makes it possible to create a non-distorted shot out of a fisheye shot (not going to describe the technique here, but it can be found online). This can be extremely useful for photographing very wide landscapes.
Tip #8. Don’t always immediately take your camera out and look for potential frames. Walk around in nature and use your eyes. Try to visualize how things would look through your camera. I also often use my smartphone, which has an around 20mm field of view. Simply to check framing.